Long time since a real post so this will be a long one. I’m now in my homestay in Ayani Kibera and I will be here for at least two weeks. Observations so far:
I knew before that the water wars would be the next global conflict, but it’s definitely a wake up call to live the realities that will cause massive economic and social meltdown. Background information- Kenya’s electricity system is run by hydro power (super green and awesome). There has been a multi year drought affecting the region and causing widespread power rationing and high electric prices. I write this on my laptop by candle light- as the power has not come on in the house where I am living. It’s not even one of the days that is supposed to have rationing.
In addition to the electricity issues, the water shortage has caused crop failure/limited production (the latest issue has been sugar shortages), migration of pastoralists into major metropolitan areas to graze animals (cows and goats are prevalent in the middle of Nairobi), and massive environmental problems. On a micro scale, it causes discomfort for humans, as we are forced to take bucket showers, ration toilet water, and be extremely careful when washing dishes/laundry.
Examples of Life in Nairobi by subject
Bucket showers- Are an experience. I’m becoming a champ. Here’s how they go. You get a bucket half full of scalding water (heated outside on a charcoal brazier) that you balance with some cold water from the tap (I’m extremely fortunate to have a tap with running water). You then wash with a pitcher of water that you pour over yourself. It’s important however, to not use all of the water because cultural requirements mean that you have to wash your underwear yourself and keep it hidden (or else your spirit will go everywhere) so it gets cleaned in the remaining water. A hint to any of you that may travel to a country with a similar culture- bring microfiber underwear; it dries significantly faster and better than cotton. I wish someone had told me that before I arrived.
Laundry/House-help - The household that I’m staying in is well off enough to have house-help, a lovely woman named Gladys that lives in Kibera Ghetto- the largest slum in East Africa (and by many accounts, the world). She seems to be very close to my Mama (host mother) and they joke and spend a lot of time together. Other households have help that is not allowed to speak or look family members in the eye. Gladys does the laundry, arranges shoes, does cooking (with Mama), ironing, and other household chores. She arrives early in the morning and leaves late at night, and has Sundays off. It seems to be a very difficult life.
Television- Just as in the US, the evening (when there is power) is dominated by the television in the living room. We watch news in Swahili, some dramas that are in Swahili with smatterings of English, and, most importantly, Tusker Project Fame (an American Idol/Big Brother hybrid that is sponsored by the local beer company), Nigerian soap operas, and Mexican telenovellas that have been poorly dubbed into English. The most popular, Sebastian y Catalina, features a couple that is fighting through a divorce about money and family. The most interesting is Storm over Paradise, which follows a woman that has been wrongfully accused of murder and is in jail while her true love is in the hospital. The twist? The woman is actually a mermaid! Why? Who knows?
Ramadan/Islam/Recognition- I’m staying with a Muslim family, which means that they are observing Ramadan. I’m also located about a block from the local mosque, which is pretty sweet (as I type this I can hear the evening call to prayer). It’s a great landmark for matatu rides. A group of us took a matatu from the local Nakumatt (like a Walmart) and when I said that we should be dropped at the mosque stop, the conductor replied “oh yes, I saw you there earlier.” Apparently the group of muzungu students living in Ayani have been a source of gossip and recognition.
Food- Kenyan food features a lot of cabbage, potatoes, beans, and rice, just as food in most of the world does. In addition to these starches there are also chapatti (an Indian import similar to naan, but more fried [just as delicious]) and ugali (a stiff porridge of maize that is similar to thick grits). A lot of food is eaten with your hands, which is simple with chapatti, but significantly more difficult with ugali. I have not yet achieved the grace and cleanliness with which my Mama can pick up ugali chunks, squish them around, and then pick up meat and sauce without dirtying her hands. The food is filling, and there is always too much. I really need to start running in the mornings, but I can’t quite figure out where to do it in the busy market that I live in.
The Neighborhood- is unlike anything that I would have ever considered living in. The area where the house is remains quiet most of the time and is off of the main street. However, a short walk away is a series of streets lined with shops selling small sundries. The area is bustling with people and is rarely seen by muzungu. We are definite anomalies, and we are treated as such.
Chai- is the Swahili word for tea, non specific type (or a bribe). One of the remnants of the British colonial system is a strict, almost religious, adherence to the tea time system. We receive a tea break or two everyday, during which we are served tea with milk, bread and butter/peanut butter, and jam. We then stand around for about a half hour, drink our tea, and relax before going back to class. Tea is served with every meal in my household- my Mama makes it with sugar and masalaa spices. It is delicious, but I’m a little concerned that my blood might actually turn into chai.
School- features Swahili classes for the morning (about three hours a day) and site visits, Field Studies Seminars, or Society classes in the afternoon. We get about two hours for lunch, which allows me to read the newspaper to gain a better perspective on the politics and culture of the area and to do research on prior work that other students have done. The other students are fun and interesting people that come from a broad variety of experiences and backgrounds. Almost everyone seems fairly motivated to gain a lot of experience from the program over the next few months. Our Swahili teachers are excellent at teaching with limited English interruption and are open people. Our Field Studies and Society professor is an American woman who has lived in Kenya for over 20 years. She is married to one of our Directors (a Ugandan/Kenyan) and has her doctorate after writing her thesis on Masaai beadwork. She tells hilarious and fascinating stories and has an unusual way of looking at the world.
Kenyan Perceptions/Treatment of Americans- cat calls and attention cries are common on the street here. Children commonly call “how are you?”- a phrase learned from a popular television program, or loudly whisper “muzungu” among themselves. Older people (usually men) often shout “Obama!” and can come very close while doing so. Children also like to reach out and touch muzungu hands- they are fascinated with white skin. If comfortable enough and close enough to a muzungu, some children like to play with muzungu hair, and if you cut it while here they will take it and use it on their dolls. Rude actions are also numerous and range from a hissing sound that men will use on groups of muzungu girls to several of my friends being whipped with a thin stick while passing by a group of teenagers.
Perceptions of Americans come most frequently from media sources. Zainab, my host sister, is eleven, and enjoys watching High School Musical 3 on my laptop (yes, I have now seen High School Musical 3, and it is just as awful and catchy as I expected it to be). She likes to question me about each character’s actions, clothing, and the reality of the movie. Her older sister sat with me and Mary Beth, one of the other students and my closest neighbor, and listened to us chat about life at a US university with extreme interest. Topics that we generally consider mundane are extremely fascinating- even to some of the host families that have hosted students before. One of the students sat with his host family for several hours and was asked to analyze every lyric of Jay Z’s new album. The idea that he does not closely follow rap or understand rap culture was not an idea that even crossed the mind of his host brothers and sisters.
That’s all for now. I’ll try to update again before I go to Mombasa, but in a week I’ll be out of contact for about 10 days.
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