Gladys, our househelp in Ayany, making chapati- a fairly staple dish similar to a greasy, fried tortilla. They're eaten with everything and used to scoop up the normally stew-like meals here.

I do my own laundry by hand now. In Ayany I paid Gladys a small fee to do it, but now I'm on my own. It takes about an hour to do about 10 articles of clothing and many many rinses. This is the color of the water several rinses in. It's hard work- makes me grateful for washing machines and driers. All my clothes are completely stretched out by this point.